In the extreme outskirts of paris lies a hidden gem: far away from all the cleanorific, noveau-riche pipe-smokin' folk of Clignancourt, and deep in the heart of immigrantland. This flea market requires patience and a keen eye for hidden beauty. The antique stalls are scattered throughout the northern part of the market, which in itself is more like a huge beast of cheap knick-knacks and home-depo-ware. In the beginning one might be tempted to think: "WTF, this is a total waste of time" - but fear not! keep walking northbound on the right-most aisle and sure enough, you'll start seeing those enamel pots and brass candlesticks shining their bright beacons of light and calling out your name.
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| In the beginning... |
then you start seeing some good stuff here and there:
keep your eyes peeled! some of my most favorite finds EVER came from this part of the market. and for cheap, too! although quality varies and depends on how lucky you are. i've usually gone on mondays (it's the only weekly flea in Paris that's open on mondays too) and there might be better finds on sundays.
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| From here on out, it's 100% flea |
The market is a short 5 minute walk from the metro station with the same name - and is located on the eastern side of the highway, just after the big traffic circle (you'll recognize it by the big 'Carrefour' sign on the tall building right next to it) -
map
open on Saturdays, Sundays, and Mondays. don't bother showing up before 08:30am, as most of the sellers will have only started unpacking their stuff by then. There is a stall selling breakfast + coffee.
TIME SAVING TIP - if you're short on time, there is another entrance to the market which goes directly into the flea part, saving you the awkward long walk through knick-knack-ville. Just look for
this bus stop on your map, and go in through the nearest entrance. (psst: there might be some interesting leftover piles around the tiny garden near the stop).
PRO TIP - in case you're on the lookout for copper pots (i found two of my fave pots in this market), bring a small magnet. if it holds itself against the pot (=becomes attracted to the metal), it's fake. Copper pots are also very heavy for their appearance.
useful phrases:
it's too expensive = c'est trop cher
how much is it? = ca fait combien?
will you accept 1 euro, maybe? = vous accpetez un euro, peut etre?
this is not real copper = c'est pas cuivre
BONUS
on my previous visit i found a huge and beautiful antique shop called 'Le Radeau Neptune'. It is located two metro stops after porte de montreuil, and is a 7 minute walk from the station. totally worth it. they have two stories' worth of beautiful china plates, servewere, cutlery and silverware. an amazing selection, and not too pricey. i've found it thanks to a
comment by Sandy Price on David Lebovitz's blog (sandy also wrote an
amazing book about flea markets in france, which i've used extensively). make sure you call ahead to ask about opening hours, as they can be quirky. Address: 32 boulevard Paul Vaillant Couturier. Metro: Mairie de Montreuil
Last visited: February, 2016
